I recently took a mental voyage to Greenland, which began
when I read Knud Rasmussen’s book, The People of the
Polar North, published in 1908.
Rasmussen (1879–1933) was born and raised in Greenland, the son of a
Danish minister and his Danish-Eskimo wife.
Most of Knud’s buddies were Eskimos (Inuit), and he fluently spoke both
languages. The family moved to Denmark
when Knud was 14, and he soon realized that the wild frontier was far more
healthy and alive than the noisy crazy crowds of civilization.
At the age of 23, he eagerly returned to Greenland. His mission was to document the little known
culture and history of his people, before they were overwhelmed by the intense
madness of modernity, or driven to extinction by disease. He had absolute respect for the indigenous
culture, and he excelled at getting the wild people to trust him with their
stories. Reading this book struck some
deep ancestral chords. It was a magic
portal into a saner and healthier world.
Stories like this are good medicine.
They put things in a clearer perspective.
In those days, Greenland was intensely alive — birds, fish,
whales, seals, walruses, reindeer, bears — a precious treasure of abundance and
vitality that is beyond the imagination of contemporary minds. The spiritual realm of the Eskimos embraced
the entire family of life, a realm in which humans were no more significant
than lemmings or lice. Humans were not
the dominant animal, and Eskimo culture was perfectly free of self-important
gods and goddesses. Everything was
alive, and all were related.
In the old days, all things animate and inanimate were alive,
and all beings were able to communicate with each other. People could change into bears, and bears
could change into people. There were far
fewer boundaries. Every community had at
least one shaman, and he or she was kept busy attending to the affairs of the
spirit world. They understood the
mysteries of hidden things, and had power over the destinies of men. Rasmussen always sought out the shamans in
his travels.
The Eskimos did not have permanent homes; they followed the
food. One group regularly waited for the
walruses to come ashore at Taseralik, usually in September. The huge slow-moving animals were sitting
ducks on the rocks, and up to 50 were killed per hour. The clan spent the long dark winters there,
hunting for seals, and dining on the meat and fish they had stored. In April, when the ice began breaking up,
they moved to the mouth of the Ström Fjord, and hunted seal and walrus. In June, they moved to Iginiarfik and caught
capelin, small fish like smelt. Then they
returned to Taseralik to catch halibut.
Living near the Arctic was challenging for two-legged mammals
that evolution had fine-tuned for living in the tropics. By far, Eskimos were the most high-tech
subsistence hunters that ever lived. In
open waters, they hunted and fished in kayaks and umiaqs. When it was time to move camp or visit other
villages, they traveled across the ice on dogsleds, which required thick
ice. There were many times when thin ice
appeared to be thick ice, and this illusion shortened many lives. During the long, dark winters, the average
temperature was -25° F (-31° C).
Sila, the weather, was a power that dominated Eskimo
life. Greenlanders did not spend their
days staring at cell phones, because Sila would blow them away with 150 mph (240
kph) winds, or bury them in sudden avalanches, or wash them away with flash
floods, or drown them in stormy seas, or melt the ice they were sledding
across.
There was also Nerrivik (“the food dish”), the woman at the
bottom of the sea, who ruled the beings of the water world. She was a moody power, and she often withheld
the seals from hungry hunters. When this
happened, shamans were required to journey into her world, tidy her hair, and
calm her down.
Rasmussen’s buddy, Peter Freuchen, took a nap during a storm
when the temperature was -60° F (-51° C).
When he awoke, his feet were frozen.
This cost him a leg. Rasmussen
told the story of Qumangâpik, who had four wives and 15 children. The first wife froze to death, the second was
buried by an avalanche, the third died of illness, and the fourth froze to
death. Of his 15 children, one starved,
four were frozen, and five died of illness.
Qumangâpik froze to death, with his wife and two little children. Three of his kids outlived him.
In Greenland, it was ridiculously easy to die from brief lapses
of attention or the fickle whims of luck.
When they ran out of meat, they ate their dogs. Then they ate corpses. Sometimes they killed and ate the weak. Many times, everyone died. They did not rot away in nursing homes. For those who became a burden on the clan,
the ride was soon over. You were either
strong and healthy, or you found enjoyment in the afterlife, which was a good
place. There was no Hell for heathen Eskimos.
There was no television, radio, internet, or cell
phones. There were no malls, roads, or
cities. There was no money. There were no rich or poor. Nobody starved unless everyone starved. There were no lawyers, soldiers, farmers,
herders, police, politicians, pimps, prostitutes, salespersons, miners,
loggers, fashion models, or recreational shoppers. Eskimos were purely wild and free people,
living in a wild and free land, like undamaged human beings.
Eskimos pitied (and giggled at) the Danes, because they
suffered from hurricane minds — they never stopped thinking. Rasmussen once observed an Eskimo who
appeared to be deep in thought. Knud
asked him what he was thinking about, and the man laughed. The only time we think is when we’re running
low on meat. Their language included no
tools for discussing abstractions or ideas.
They rarely made plans for tomorrow.
They warmly glowed with “an irresponsible happiness at merely being
alive….”
I also read Gretel Ehrlich’s book, This Cold Heaven, published in
2001. She was an American who had made
several extended visits to Greenland between 1993 and 1999. She was fascinated by Rasmussen’s stories,
and had read the 6,000 pages of his expedition notes. The chapters of her book flip-flop between
discussions of Knud’s life, and descriptions of the folks she met while
visiting Greenland.
The recent decades had not been kind for Greenland, as the
cancer of a cash economy spread, taking a heavy toll on the remaining
wildlife. But compared to her California
home, it seemed like paradise. Her
friend Maria told her, “It’s too bad for you when you visit Greenland, because
then you have to keep going back. When
you have been with those people — with the Inuit — you know that you have been
with human beings.”
Robert Peary went to the North Pole in 1909. Like many white lads, the incredible beauty
of Inuit women inspired him, with immense throbbing excitement, to toss his
Christian virtues to the wind. In 1997,
Ehrlich met two of his granddaughters at Thule.
They lamented that when the Europeans stomped ashore in 1721, there were
16,000 wild heathen souls in all of Greenland.
It wasn’t long before the population fell to just 110, thanks to smallpox. Now there are 60,000, thanks to the
industrial food system.
When Rasmussen traveled across northern Canada in the 1920s,
he reported a vast herd of migrating caribou that took three days to pass. During the warm months, the skies of
Greenland were filled with millions of migrating birds that came to nest on
rocky islands. Happy people harvested
many birds and eggs. In 1933, the birds
got their revenge. Kivioq was an
Arctic delicacy, consisting of dead auks stuffed into seal gut and allowed to
rot for two months. Rasmussen died from
salmonella poisoning after gobbling down a bowl of it. Urp!
Today, the era of nomadic living is over. In 1995, the village of Uummannaq was home to
1,400 people and 6,000 dogs. All
settlements reeked of “dog shit, seal guts, and unwashed bodies.” Epidemics of distemper periodically hammered
down canine overpopulation. Dogs were
kept chained all the time, except on hunting trips. Male dogs that broke free were a public
nuisance, and it was the village dogcatcher’s job to simply shoot them on
sight.
Ehrlich went on a few hunting trips, riding on a dogsled
across the ice. It felt like a
prehistoric experience, but there was one huge difference. The harpoons and bows had been replaced by
high-powered rifles. It was now far
easier to kill seals and polar bears from a distance.
People no longer hunted and fished for subsistence
alone. In addition to food and furs for
their family, they also needed surplus, to pay for electricity, phones,
ammunition, heating oil, groceries, computers, cigarettes, alcohol, etc. The more wildlife they destroyed, the more
money they could make, and the more cool stuff they could buy. This vicious cycle grew into a mass
hysteria. Many people were hunting and
fishing as if they were the last generation.
Trouble was born when the Danes first laid eyes on a thriving
ecosystem. Their civilized brains began
spinning with excitement, calculating how much wealth could be reaped by exterminating
Greenland’s wildlife. It was impossible
for their minds to contemplate the notion of turning around, going home, and
leaving the Eskimos in peace.
Even if the Eskimos had promptly hacked the first missionaries
and traders into dog food, they were powerless to prevent the heavily-armed
Danes from gang-raping their paradise, and poisoning their ancient culture with
the insanity of mindless materialism. When
guns, knives, pots, and matches became available at trading posts, few wild
folks anywhere rejected them. We have a
weakness for tools.
Shortly after Ehrlich’s book was published, a mob of wildlife
advocates discovered the reckless destruction in Greenland, and commenced to
yowl and bellow. Greenland shrugged. It is, after all, the twenty-first century.
PS: In 1972, eight Eskimo mummies
were discovered at Qilakitsog. They date to 1460 AD, and were remarkably
well-preserved by freeze-drying, including their clothing, tattoos, and even
their lice.
Rasmussen, Knud, The
People of the Polar North, Kegan Paul, Trench, Trübner & Co., London, 1908.
Ehrlich, Gretel, This
Cold Heaven — Seven Seasons in Greenland, Pantheon Books, New York,
2001.